Sewing a 1960s A-Line Dress: Butterick 5155

It's been a little quiet on the sewing front, but I finally finished a project that was started a year ago.  I have needed a bit of sewing therapy in between revising for my viva exam, which is fast approaching.  

The pattern is Butterick 5155 from 1969.  The short a-line dress has three necklines and three sleeve variations to choose from. I chose view B's scoop neckline with view A's flared sleeves.  The fabric I chose was a vintage bed sheet with a lovely daffodil print, bought for £2. This dress was meant to be a 'toile', with a view to using nicer fabric if I liked how it turned out.

The construction

It involved 3 main pieces for the dress, plus sleeves and neck facings.  There are two darts at the front, one a normal bust dart, and a big curved one coming from the side seam.

Some elements of the sewing were quite satisfying.  I was really pleased with my neckline. Facings can be a faff, but this was only my second attempt and I had improved so much. I achieved a sharp edge. I also inserted a zip without wobbles, resulting in an invisible zip which is indeed invisible, which is progress for me. I also enjoyed putting in the curved darts from the sides. 

There certainly were some tricky bits.  Inserting a sleeve was devilishly difficult. It was my first attempt at this, and I hated it!  You can tell; my gathers are awful. I also messed up the top of the zip, and I lost the will with finishing my raw edges with zigzag stitch. I really must learn to use the overlocker I bought last year.

The finished item

The main issue for me is that the neckline turned out far wider than I anticipated, it's practically off the shoulder.  That's not right!  The fit is also fairly loose through the body on me. It appears much more fitted on the illustration, making me wonder if the pattern runs big.  My body measurements are very close to those detailed on the pattern envelope, and I was very careful to be as exact as possible when cutting out and sewing with the correct seam allowance.  Perhaps as my cotton fabric is quite thin, the dress would have turned out better in a thicker fabric.  Maybe a bit of Crimplene or brocade would have actually resulted in a better fit.

Would I make it again?

I think not. There are better patterns for me out there. I won't wear this one - the fabric is destined for recycling into something else.  Ah well, you sew and learn!

I will be uploading my feedback to the Vintage Sewing Patterns Wikia, a great resource for vintage sewing enthusiasts.  I really would have liked to have seen pictures of other people's attempts at this pattern before embarking myself.